This site will be deticated to my Steel Mill modeling and P&LE projects. I hope to share projects that I have or will be working on in the near future. I belong to the Sipping and Switching Society of North Carolina, we are a HO modular railroad group. I have several modules representing the steel industry. To see more of my work, follow the link to the Yahoo group Sipping and Switching Society of North Carolina. We are not your normal modular group.
Monday, March 26, 2012
Union Railroad Cabooses
Several Weeks ago I stumbled across some Union Railroad decals for sale on ebay again. I bought the the caboose decals in yellow font, last year the same dealer was selling decals for twin bay hoppers in white fonts. I used them to make the 70 ton triple bay hoppers that the "Union" got from the B&LE in the early '70s. The hoppers came out nice, I'll post a pic of them sometime in the future.
Back to the cabooses, there is no good kit that represents the union early center cupola "shorty" cabooses. Here's what I have tried that looks some what respectable. 1st Caboose: I used an in expensive "Round House" (MDC)center cupola kit 26' two window caboose. I changed the trucks that came with the kit to Athearn caboose trucks with metal wheel sets. I had to add roof walk on the ends to allow for a slightly bigger platform where the ladder is located. I used window glazing for the large window on the car sides and used Krystal Klear (Microscale) for the cupola windows.
The 2nd Caboose: I used a Atlas center cupola caboose as is. I just removed the initial letter on the side (Erie & Lackawanna), repainted the side. Adding the decals, in both cases after I painted the cabooses the color I wanted, I sprayed Testors gloss coat over the sides where the decals were going to be installed. The decals need a smooth surface to properly adhere to the area. You don't want any "silvering" behind the decal. Its hard to remove on a flat painted surface. Decals are cut and place in water until they float off decal film. With a pair of fine tip tweezers place the decal in the desired location, using a warn number 11 x-acto blade knife align the decal where desired. Move on to the next decal until you finish the one side. When that side is dry flip over and repeat on the other side.
To set the decals, when both sides are dry, use Walther decal setting solution (Solvaset)and apply to the decals with a moderate amount. Don't over due it, and don't touch the decal until dry. If there are any bulbs that appear, take a brand new #11 x-acto blade and pop the bulbs. Apply another dose of Solvaset, you may have to repeat this one or two more times. Just us small doses with further applications. Once this step is compete and dried, I paint the whole area with Testors Gloss coat again. When this coat drys, I then go over the whole model with Testors Dulcoat to blind everything together. then I begin my weathering process. Any way here are the results.
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