Union Railroad Cabooses

Several Weeks ago I stumbled across some Union Railroad decals for sale on ebay again. I bought the the caboose decals in yellow font, last year the same dealer was selling decals for twin bay hoppers in white fonts. I used them to make the 70 ton triple bay hoppers that the "Union" got from the B&LE in the early '70s. The hoppers came out nice, I'll post a pic of them sometime in the future.

Back to the cabooses, there is no good kit that represents the union early center cupola "shorty" cabooses. Here's what I have tried that looks some what respectable. 1st Caboose: I used an in expensive "Round House" (MDC)center cupola kit 26' two window caboose. I changed the trucks that came with the kit to Athearn caboose trucks with metal wheel sets. I had to add roof walk on the ends to allow for a slightly bigger platform where the ladder is located. I used window glazing for the large window on the car sides and used Krystal Klear (Microscale) for the cupola windows.

The 2nd Caboose: I used a Atlas center cupola caboose as is. I just removed the initial letter on the side (Erie & Lackawanna), repainted the side. Adding the decals, in both cases after I painted the cabooses the color I wanted, I sprayed Testors gloss coat over the sides where the decals were going to be installed. The decals need a smooth surface to properly adhere to the area. You don't want any "silvering" behind the decal. Its hard to remove on a flat painted surface. Decals are cut and place in water until they float off decal film. With a pair of fine tip tweezers place the decal in the desired location, using a warn number 11 x-acto blade knife align the decal where desired. Move on to the next decal until you finish the one side. When that side is dry flip over and repeat on the other side.

To set the decals, when both sides are dry, use Walther decal setting solution (Solvaset)and apply to the decals with a moderate amount. Don't over due it, and don't touch the decal until dry. If there are any bulbs that appear, take a brand new #11 x-acto blade and pop the bulbs. Apply another dose of Solvaset, you may have to repeat this one or two more times. Just us small doses with further applications. Once this step is compete and dried, I paint the whole area with Testors Gloss coat again. When this coat drys, I then go over the whole model with Testors Dulcoat to blind everything together. then I begin my weathering process. Any way here are the results.

Hulett Unloader Part - 9

I was able to get the rest of the hulett painted in basic Floquil "Grimmy Black". As with the lower portion of the hulett I used the 50/50 mixture of Floquil Rail-brown and Oxide-red to start the first application of weathering. If you notice in the pictures that at this point both half's of the hulett look pretty much the same over-all.

I will begin detail painting the top portion tonight to get the model to the same point as the bottom section. This will include painting the wheel treads silver to match the top of the rails. Also will need to apply my oily wash to match the bottom. My buddy Mark Gugliotta showed me the Polly S "Oily Black" that he commented on when we were at one of our favorite hobby shops last week. He swears it looks just like oil stains once it dries. He's got a good eye for that sorter thing, will see.

Just a quick note; when I completed building the model (not painted) the pieces went together a little tight. Obviously it got even tighter once it was painted (the parts don't slide very well once painted). I ended up popping one of my glue joints apart at the end of the lower housing at the very rear cross section. This was to allow the model to flex in order to line up the trolley, guide and upper crane. Just I thought I should mention the issue.

With a little luck I will hope to post again tomorrow with a new update.